Friday 24 June 2016

Day 2 - 15 May 2016 Kimberley to Khama Rhino Camp, Botswana

Day's trip schedule

Kimberley -> Warrenton -> Vryburg -> Mafekeng -> Ramatlabama -> Gaborone -> Palapye -> Serowe


Distance & Time Taken

870 km
11 1/2 hrs



Accommodation

Khama Rhino Sanctuary (www.khamarhinosanctuary.org.bw)
+/-25kms north of Serowe on the A14 road to Lethlakanye






Trip Notes



We had to use our alarm this morning, hopefully for the last time this trip & awoke to a really cold winters' morning in Kimberley.  It was dark when we got up, showered, had breakfast & packed.  The night's sleep was disturbed by a noisy compressor of the fridge but, this would be the last time for a while we would be sleeping on a bed - from now on, it would be on top of the vehicle on the inaugural trip of the Wild Earth RTT.

We were en route by 06h45 through Kimberley to the border at Mafekeng.  I was surprised at the development that had happened in Kimberley in terms of shopping malls, etc but disappointed at the state of the roads through the city centre.  On the N12 just north of town, we passed a large dam - Kamfers Dam - that is home to a few thousand of flamingos. Unfortunately, from the N12, there is no access to the dam so it was difficult to get a close up of all the birds. (http://www.southafrica.net/za/en/articles/entry/article-southafrica.net-kimberleys-flamingos)

Next stop was Vryburg where we again fuelled up at the Caltex.  The petrol jockey wasn't paying attention & the fuel pump switched off half way through the fill resulting in a split transaction.  This took my attention off the car for a moment (Ang was in the shop buying water) but she noticed some miscreant trying to look through the window on the opposite side to me as to what we had inside but her quick thinking in dashing out of the shop resulted in him fleeing before he could get anything - a wake up call to focus on security at all times.  At the Engen across the road (with a Woolies foodshop nogal), a party was on the go in the forecourt with the taxi's refuelling on their way back from the ANC election Manifesto launch in Bloemfontein the previous day.

We took another break in Mafekeng where I needed to purchase a tripod having forgotten mine in Cape Town & Ang needed to do update her Unisa work before we headed across the border & lost wifi.  Mafekeng has also had significant development over the last 20 years (I worked there for a year in 1994/5 as store manager for the re-launched Woolies store at Megacity).  We left town just before 12 & headed to the Ramatlabama border post with Botswana which lies about 20kms north of the town.  The SA side went pretty quickly even though we needed to fill in the SARS declaration for all the goods we were taking with us.  The Botswana side was a bit of a challenge firstly with parking & then with the office itself.  After squeezing between 2 poorly parked Botswana registered cars, we headed into the office only to find no immigration papers available.  First we had to queue for these & then re-queue again to have them processed - queueing was not a strong point for the locals trying to get through so I had a few prize words for the queue jumpers which seemed to spark the officials into action to manage the line.  From here, we had to finalise the vehicle import & pay the relevant tax before we could head out.  The entire process took over an hour but could have been done with 30 minutes had processes been in place.

The drive through to Gaborone was pretty easy but slow as we had to slow down through every village (there are many).  I hadn't been to Gabs since the early 2000's and was surprised at the infrastructural development - looking very first world (bit of a Dubai feel in places).  After leaving Gabs, we were on the A1 again heading up to Palapye but the first portion was slow going due to the roadworks.  The rest was challenging as there was significant traffic heading back down to Gabs at the end of the weekend.  I was getting worried that were not going to make the gate closure at Khama Rhino but couldn't get hold of them telephonically to confirm at what time they do close.  We turned off the A1 just before sunset & then drove the A14 into a beautiful setting sun.  We eventually got to Khama Rhino at 18h15 very relieved that they don't have a gate closing time & that if you miss the office closing time (19h00), the guard would advise you where to go.

We bought some firewood & a map of the sanctuary before heading out to campsite #4 in the dusk.  We quickly set up camp & got the fire going to braai the lamb chops we had bought in Beaufort West the day before.  It was a long day but we were now encouraged that we had covered a significant portion of ground in 2 days.


Costs for the day



Accommodation
Khama Rhino Sanctuary
BWP480,00
Border vehicle fee
Botswana
BWP150,00






Day 1 - 14 May 2016 Cape Town to Kimberley

Day's trip schedule

Cape Town -> Beaufort West -> Three Sisters -> Victoria West -> Hopetown -> Kimberley

Distance & Time Taken

961km
10 hrs



Accommodation

Mein Heim Guest House (www.meinheimestate.co.za)
+/-15kms south of Kimberley on the R357 road to Douglas








Trip Notes

We awoke to really gloomy winter's day in Cape Town.  We weren't in a great rush to get onto the road as we knew it would take about 10 hours & I was hoping the weather would clear a little.  After a light breakfast, we said our goodbyes to the folks as well as Izzi & Zach (our 2 Jack Russells).  We headed out onto the N1 around 08h30 with the miserable weather accompanying us all the way to Worcester.


Packed & ready to go - miserable weather

Once we were through the Hex River Valley, the sun came out but so too did a headwind.  With all the kit on the vehicle, we are not the most aero-dynamic creature on the road.  We fuelled up again at Beaufort West & stopped in at the Karoo Deli to stock up on some wors & lamb chops.

Progress was a bit sluggish with the wind but we also weren't in any great rush.  It was Ang's first trip on the N12 & my first again since 1999.  Interestingly, not a lot had changed in the small towns on the route.  We got to Kimberley after sunset & then had to backtrack on the R357 slightly to Mein Heim Estate.  We arrived at our overnight stop at around 18h30 where we met up with Christine, settled the bill & then went through to our room.  The guest house offers 4 room options & we selected the smallest as we didn't need all the extra space.  The room was very comfortable with a fully equipped kitchen to make meals.

The outside temperature was real cold with the highveld crispness & Ang was very grateful for the airconditioner & the electric blanket.  We had a light dinner & headed to bed before 22h00 as we intended to be on the road again between 06h30 & 07h00.



Costs for the day



Accommodation Mein Heim Guest House
R750,00
Toll Fees Paarl
R33,00
Diesel Caltex Beaufort West
R936,00






Preparation for Overland trip to Malawi

DESTINATION MALAWI 2016



With the collapse of the Rand, we again decided to overland during May & June rather take a trip across to Spain with Lake Malawi being the choice of final destination before turning back.  After last years' trip to Namibia during the same period, we decided this is possibly the best time of the year to travel locally for a number of reasons:

  • outside of school holidays
  • before the vacation period for the Europeans / Americans 
  • still warm enough to camp comfortably
  • mosquito infestations not as bad as summer
The route we finally selected would be through South Africa into Botswana, then after a few days in Botswana, through to Livingstone, Bengweulu National Park, South Luangwa and onto Lake Malawi with Cape Maclear being the turning point.  Route back would be back through Zambia via Livingstone through to northern Nambia & then back to Cape Town.  





The initial idea was up through Kruger Park into Mozambique via Pafuri & into Gonarezhou in Zimbabwe.  From there we would then cut across eastern Zimbabwe & take the Tete corridor through Mozambique to get to Malawi.  This would have provided up with opportunities to visit new destinations but the risk in Mozambique with Renamo & Frelimo back at war again was just too much of a risk to us as we are  travelling alone.  Gonarezhou will have to be a trip in itself for a future date.

The original plan was:




From
To
Country
Dist
Time
Accommodation
















Sat
14 May
Cape Town
Kimberley
SA
961
10h 27m
Mein Heim Guest Farm
Sun
15 May
Kimberley
Serowe
Botswana
870
9h 51m
Khama Rhino Sanctuary
Mon
16 May
Serowe
Serowe
Botswana


Khama Rhino Sanctuary
Tue
17 May
Serowe
Makgadikgadi Pans
Botswana
246
4h 24m
Lekhubu Island
Wed
18 May
Makgadikgadi Pans
Makgadikgadi Pans
Botswana


Lekhubu Island
Thu
19 May
Makgadikgadi Pans
Livingstone
Zambia
498
8h 41m
Peregrine’s Nest Bushcamp
Fri
20 May
Livingstone
Livingstone
Zambia


Peregrine’s Nest Bushcamp
Sat
21 May
Livingstone
Luangwa Bridge
Zambia
725
10h 1m
Bridge Camp Luangwa
Sun
22 May
Luangwa Bridge
Cape Maclear
Malawi
698
10h 18m
Fat Monkeys Camping
Mon
23 May
Cape Maclear
Cape Maclear
Malawi


Fat Monkeys Camping
Tue
24 May
Cape Maclear
Cape Maclear
Malawi


Fat Monkeys Camping
Wed
25 May
Cape Maclear
Cape Maclear
Malawi


Fat Monkeys Camping
Thu
26 May
Cape Maclear
South Luangwa NP
Zambia
493
9h 21m
The Wildlife Camp
Fri
27 May
South Luangwa NP
South Luangwa NP
Zambia


The Wildlife Camp
Sat
28 May
South Luangwa NP
South Luangwa NP
Zambia


The Wildlife Camp
Sun
29 May
South Luangwa NP
Bangweulu Game Reserve
Zambia
305
10h 45m
Shoebill Island Campsite
Mon
30 May
Bengweulu Game Reserve
Bangweulu Game Reserve
Zambia


Shoebill Island Campsite
Tue
31 May
Bengweulu Game Reserve
Bangweulu Game Reserve
Zambia


Shoebill Island Campsite
Wed
1 Jun
Bengweulu Game Reserve
Fringilla
Zambia
649
10h 28m
Fringilla Lodge Campsite
Thu
2 Jun
Fringilla
Kafue NP
Zambia
250
4h 30m
Mayukuyuku Camp
Fri
3 Jun
Kafue NP
Kafue NP
Zambia
57
2h 41m
Kainga Safari Lodge Rapids Camping
Sat
4 Jun
Kafue NP
Kafue NP
Zambia


Kainga Safari Lodge Rapids Camping
Sun
5 Jun
Kafue NP
Kafue NP
Zambia
139
5h 21m
Nanzhila Plains Safari Camp
Mon
6 Jun
Kafue NP
Katimo Mulilo
Namibia
280
8h 12m
Namwi Island Lodge Camping
Tue
7 Jun
Katimo Mulilo
Bwabwata NP
Namibia
338
3h 47m
Ngepi Camp
Wed
8 Jun
Bwabwata NP
Bwabwata NP
Namibia


Ngepi Camp
Thu
9 Jun
Bwabwata NP
Bwabwata NP
Namibia


Ngepi Camp
Fri
10 Jun
Bwabwata NP
Windhoek
Namibia
951
9h 54m
Monteiro Camping Windhoek
Sat
11 Jun
Windhoek
Vioolsdrift
SA
810
8h 56m
Fiddlers Creek Rest Camp
Sun
12 Jun
Vioolsdrift
Vioolsdrift
SA


Fiddlers Creek Rest Camp
Mon
13 Jun
Vioolsdrift
Cape Town
SA
676
7h 33m


As per usual, we booked very little accommodation in advance rather relying on finding appropriate lodging as we wended our way around the various countries.  Our pre-booking went as far as Kubu Island in Botswana which proved to be advantageous as we made some significant changes on the road.

I contacted Zippisat & loaded more airtime onto the Satellite phone as I was concerned regarding the route from South Luangwa up to Bangweulu as the roads may be pretty difficult it being so close after the rainy season that we would be travelling through the park & up the escarpment.  I contacted the team from Shoebill camp but they weren't able to provide me with too much information so it would be pretty much checking the status once we were at the Wildlife Camp in Mfuwe.

The Hilux required very little attention other than a new aluminium bash plate that I had fitted at R&D Offroad in Bracknell.  They also had a look at & repaired the swing arm for the left back spare tyre as it was starting to sag & touch the plastic plate on the bumper.  Tanks were full, spare 40l diesel loaded on the roof rack, fluids checked, tyres checked & pumped and the vehicle was ready to be packed.




I took the backseat out & fitted my homemade shelf to hold the 3rd battery, 40l Engel fridge that we would use as the freezer, camera equipment & clothes.  By the time we had loaded all, the rear of the cab was loaded to headrest level.  The Garmins were loaded with the route plan, laptop & ipad updated with the latest version of Tracks 4 Africa & all the electronics fully charged.

Ang did the shopping for the trip as well as the last minute alcohol purchases - one needs at least 2 bottles of gin "to keep the mosquitos away".  Drawers were packed, Engel 60l fridge loaded with food & drinks & the final camping bits & pieces filled the balance of the canopy.  By Friday evening, 13 May, we were ready for departure the next morning

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